The New Yorker food columnist Hannah Goldfield wrote a review of Una Pizza Napoletana when it opened on Orchard Street in 2018.
In the past fifteen years in this city, Neapolitan-style pizza has gone from rarefied regional specialty to adopted staple, practically inescapable: on Second Avenue in the East Village, a sandwich board in front of an outpost of a mini-chain called Neapolitan Express advertises a two-for-one deal. Any analysis of how this happened must consider Anthony Mangieri, the blustery, self-taught pizzaiolo from the Jersey shore, one of the first in the U.S. to devote himself slavishly to the craft, using naturally leavened dough, imported ingredients, and a wood-fired oven. When he moved his restaurant to Manhattan, in 2004, he declared his pizza better than any not only in New York but in Naples, too. Call it hyperbole, but competitors scrambled to reach his high bar.